Tucked into a corner on Denman street, a small dumpling restaurant is revolutionizing the pork bun.

“Welcome to Jingle Bao,” the host greets you, and gestures for you to follow her. You pass the open kitchen where the chefs are preparing the dumpling dough, rolling it between their palms, stretching it through their fingers like a game of cat’s cradle, stuffing it with ground meat and chopped green onion. They nod and smile as you snake through the yellow tables to a booth near the window.

“Can we get the magnificent seven, and the supersize long bao please?” The prices are reasonable. $13 for the magnificent seven and $9 for the supersize bao. 

It doesn’t take long for the waiter to return with your order. The dumplings jiggle as the bamboo steamers are set down on the table. You eat with your eyes first, taking in the pinks and blues and oranges. “The restaurant colours the dumplings organically,” the waiter tells you. “We use blueberries, dragon fruit, spinach, and carrots.” She points to each flavour of the magnificent seven. “Classic, spicy, shrimp, spinach, mushroom, garlic, and curry.”

You poke a hole in the ‘classic’ dumpling with your chopstick, letting the soup dribble out onto your spoon. It’s salty with just a hint of sweetness. The dough is soft, but not chewy. You can tell it was made by hand. You try each flavour, deciding shrimp is your favourite because of how buttery it is.

In a flash, the magnificent seven are gone and you turn giddily to the main event: the supersize bao. Though slightly flattened, the dumpling wears its name proudly. Taking the straw, you stab through the dough. The broth is warm and savoury. The pork filling, tender and packed with juice, melts in your mouth. 

Simple, yet delicious.