If you’re walking to Granville Island, you might spot signs lining the barrier fences calling out “Fresh Salmon!” or “Crabs Caught Today!” Follow their trail and you’ll find yourself at Fisherman’s Wharf and a little place called Go Fish — a fish and chips shop that has become somewhat of a Vancouver institution, while remaining a hidden gem tucked away into the cove of the wharf. The shop is unassuming, just a building the size of a shed and patio of outdoor seating where you can watch the fishing boats bob in the harbour. The space is undeniably inviting — on the crisp fall day I visited, classic rock poured from the serving window with several of the cooks singing along. 

It feels important to note that I am well known for my love of fish. I have two large salmon tattoos and my boyfriend calls me a seal for my near-neurotic desire to be constantly eating seafood. What can I say? Growing up in Seattle across the street from the beach leads to a certain fondness for aquatic life, and perhaps even greater love for what to me is a classic dish of the Pacific Northwest: Salmon and Chips. On my visit to Go Fish it is this iconic dish that I dug into first. 

Go Fish’s two-piece Salmon and Chips ($20) is served in a large bamboo steamer on a bed of fluffy, golden fries crowned with two hefty portions of fried salmon. Batter is king when it comes to all things fried and Go Fish’s does not disappoint — it’s a delicate and crispy coating that perfectly locks in the juicy fattiness of the pieces of fresh salmon. While fish and chips is certainly the dish this local treasure is known for, their sandwiches are also a must-try. I picked the Oyster Po’boy and was slightly trepidatious for the texture of grilled oysters. When cooked, these shellfish, I find, can turn into a sort of sea-flavoured chewing gum, but I was pleasantly surprised by Go Fish’s sandwich. The oysters were tender and perfumed with charcoal smoke from the grill which was in beautiful harmony with the slight char of the Portuguese roll it was served on. Having spent some time in the southern US, being spoiled by its incredible cuisine, I did find myself missing some of the sweet, pickily notes of remoulade that I typically expect on this classic Louisiana sandwich. Yet, this sandwich was a true highlight of the meal.

So, if you find yourself walking to Granville Island, follow the fishmongers’ signs and you’re guaranteed a delicious, fresh-caught, and hearty meal. You might even meet a local cat named Shadow, a regular of Go Fish, happy to help if you happen to drop a fishy morsel.